Performance Unlimited tech event demonstrates the fine art of chassis tuning for auto racing

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Joe Fischer, a fabricator working with chassis for Performance Unlimited, (address), Ringwood, laughed, “Once you get me talking about cars it’s hard to get me to stop.”

It wasn’t just the incredible depth of knowledge Fischer brought to Performance Unlimited’s Tech Presentation Sunday where racers and fans of the sport learned the fine art of fine tuning suspensions and steering for maximum performance, it was also the passion for the subject vividly flashing in Fischer’s eyes as he described how balancing the weight of a racecar at each tire is a process that has to account for fuel consumption, spring compression in turns and road temperatures while racing. In fact, Fischer said the timing of these factors is also crucial in racing as the goal is to have the car operating at its optimal weight and balance late in a race.

“You’re not going anywhere early when the cars are all packed in tight together,” Fischer said. “You want your optimal weight late.”

To achieve the optimal balance of weight, Fischer said they can add weight in different areas of the car. However, adding weight becomes counterproductive. By maintaining the chassis at the lowest possible weight, they have more flexibility to modify weight distribution.

Prior to Sunday’s event, Mike Wolf, a race engineer with the Paul Menard Car 27 (more) spoke of all the minute details required to give a NASCAR racer the best opportunity to win. Fischer echoed those sentiments. However, he also pointed out that most people don’t have millions of dollars for the kinds of equipment the ‘NASCAR boys’ use. In the case of measuring and adjusting the car’s weight at each wheel, NASCAR has a 7-post shaker that simulates the effect on weight distribution while going around the track.

“Obviously, we don’t have that capability,” Fischer said. “We use a bump-steer system – meaning the way we determine what the steering does with travel.”

Fischer demonstrated how they set the bump-steer equipment up to the spindle with the tire and wheel removed. With a floor jack, they raise the spindle through its range of travel. The dial indicator on the equipment shows how much steering the car has while driving. As Fischer explained, bump-steer is just that; the car hits a bump and, as the springs compress, the wheels pull one way or the other. The goal is to reduce the amount of pull, or steering, that occurs when going over bumps.

Fischer said everything comes down to one simple equation – how much tire can they put on the pavement.

“The bottom line in racing, in any way, shape or form – it always comes down to tires on the ground … the contact patch,” he said. “Everything you’re doing with the chassis is to achieve the most contact patch on the track.”

He said that a car with a 600-horsepower engine will lose every time to a car with 150 horses if the prior is running on bicycle tires and the other has a good set of road shoes.

The minutia of detail extends to the level of measuring the temperature of tires.  Fischer described how they take three temperature readings across the surface of the tire from outside to in. The variation in temperature tells a lot about how a particular tire is running. Even the temperature from tire to tire is informative.

“Ideally, you would have 140 – 140 – 140 (degrees) across the front left tire,” he said. “The left rear might be a little hotter because it’s the drive tire.”

For instance, Fischer said that, if a tire had readings of 110 – 50 – 110 (degrees) that would indicate there is not enough air in the tires. If the middle temperature is highest, there’s too much air. Other readings can indicate whether the camber is too positive or negative, as well as other factors.

Approximately 25 racers and enthusiasts attended the event last Sunday. The attendees brought varying levels of knowledge about the subject matter but all came away with a better understanding of the myriad of influencing factors involved in trying to tweak a racecar to its ultimate performance.

One thing that makes tuning a suspension and steering so difficult is that everything is interrelated. As Fischer explained, when they make an adjustment in one area of the car’s chassis, it tends to effect adjustments in other areas. Sometimes, identifying a problem isn’t all that easy either.

Fischer was driving a car in a race for another owner a few years ago.

“For the first 10 laps, I was dominating the field,” he said. “No one could touch me.”

But, after a yellow flag, Fischer discovered that the steering had become extremely loose; when he went around turns the rear wanted to slide out. He said that, every time they ran the car, it was the same thing. Fischer said he was talking to the owner of the car a short time after the race.

“He told me, ‘We found it,’” Fischer said.

It turned out the problem with the chassis was related to the header (exhaust manifold) requirements for the particular engine in the car – a Ford power plant. There wasn’t enough room for the headers to fit around a round brace that connected the center of the chassis to the right front of the chassis. To solve the problem, the car’s crew cut the bar out and replaced it with an aluminum alloy that was bolted in so they could remove it to fit the engine in and slide it through the headers afterwards to reconnect it.

“The thing about aluminum is that, at about 700 degrees, it turns to butter – it loses its rigidity,” he said.

When the bar, which was designed to help stabilize the chassis, became soft, the entire handling of the car changed dramatically.

Fischer said there are also differences in how they tune and balance a chassis that depend on the type of racing the car runs in. Short track racers, like Fischer, run on a circular track, always turning to the left. But, road racers run on a track with multiple turns to right and left. The optimal balance for the road racers is generally more equalized.

They also have to consider the qualifications for their type and class of racing.

“We want to be more than 58 percent (of the weight) on the left side of the car,” he said. “But, if you’re 58.2 percent to the left you’re disqualified. That’s illegal.”

In fact, the specifications change based on what type of motor a car has. Teams that choose a bigger carburetor are penalized on weight. He said that, as soon as a race is over, the top four or five finishers drive straight to the garage where they are checked to ensure they qualify. If they fail the test, they’re stripped of their winnings.

All of this translates to tuning and balancing the chassis as close to the allowable standard without crossing the line. Fischer described it as a quest.

“No matter how good you are, you’re always looking for more,” he said. “You try different things and, if they don’t work, you go the other way.”

For every improvement, the car receives what Wolf called “free speed.” And Fischer agreed that, ultimately, that’s what drives racers and their crews to continue challenging the envelope.

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NASCAR race engineer says details are key for steering and suspension tuning

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Performance Unlimited is not affiliated with NASCAR, Richard Childress Racing or the No. 27 Menards Chevrolet currently ranked sixth in Sprint Cup with Paul Menard at the wheel. No one from NASCAR is expected to attend the event Sunday. However, Denny Norton, of Performance Unlimited shares one thing with the people who compete at the NASCAR level; he understands that competitive racing doesn’t start and end with the horses under the hood.

That’s why Performance Unlimited is holding a Tech Presentation from noon to 4 p.m., Sunday, March 13. NASCAR racing is comprised of an elite field of top performers in auto racing. For those who dream of one day taking a car out onto the track at Daytona or the Brickyard, or even those who just enjoy an opportunity to compete at a local track, every competitive edge counts.

Mike Wolf is a race engineer with car No. 27. When told about the event Sunday at Performance Unlimited, Wolf said, “If you can understand your car better than the other guy you’re going to beat him at any level.”

Wolf said one of his duties is to analyze tire and wind tunnel data on the No. 27 Chevrolet.

“We look at the alignment, springs, shocks and try to optimize the overall performance of the car – to get the most out of the tires in the corners,” he said.

Wolf said it’s all in the details. The key is to find the right balance for the track, not to mention the right feel for the driver. The crews will adjust the front and for more camber (positive camber occurs when the bottoms of the front tires are closer together than the tops and negative camber is the opposite), which provides more grip from the tires. Done correctly, this will improve the handling of the car.

“But, if you’re driving around on the inside of the tire … that’s one way you can roast the tire,” he said. “You’ll see that at Daytona. A lot of people will be pushing the camber. The teams will travel the front of the car as close as possible to the ground and keep a high amount of camber in it to turn. In the end you’ll see a lot of blown tires, particularly in the nationwide series. This is less of a problem now with the track being new and having more grip.”

Wolf said other factors also come into play in terms of adjusting the steering and suspension. For instance, they’ll adjust the suspension one way for a hot track and another for a cold track. Even on a single day, the track can start out cold and, as the sun comes out, warm up significantly. That’s why, he said, it’s critical to get it right.

“If you miss it on something Saturday you can fix some things but you’ve kind of made your bed,” he said, indicating that, the closer they get to the starting flag the less they can change things to meet conditions. “If you have a fundamental problem on Sunday, you’re in trouble.”

He said the goal is to get everything you can out of every tire. In particular, they want to use the left front and the left rear tires as much as they can. This has a lot to do with adjusting the weight distribution from tire to tire.

He said that looking at the static weight distribution at each tire is critical but it’s also important to tune the spring for adjustment at speed to help in the corners.

Wolf said there’s no room for saying, “That looks good enough.” What looks good I the shop can turn into trouble on the track. He reiterated the importance of finding the right balance.

“If you’re too conservative (in tuning the steering and suspension) you’ll be too slow,” he said. “Then again, you can get to greedy.”

Leaning too heavily towards the high end of speed and handling can lead to blown tires and wrecks. Wolf said this is a little less critical when qualifying where the car only needs to make two circuits of the track. On race day, however, they’re tuning the car to run fast and long.

Though many of the competitors attending the event at Performance Unlimited are not competing at the level of Richard Childress Racing, Wolf said, “These short track guys are real good.” He said they understand that a well tuned suspension and steering equals a safer ride and “free speed.”

For more information about Performance Unlimited, visit: http://www.4performanceunlimited.com. To learn more about Paul Menard and Car No. 27, visit: http://www.rcrracing.com/teams/driverPag.asp?teamid=27.
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Auto Tech Presentation at Performance Unlimited, Ringwood, to give racers an edge

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Denny Norton, of Performance Unlimited, 5415 Austin Court, Ringwood, knows cars. His team of qualified mechanics constantly attends classes to keep their skills up to date. There is no one in the area better prepared to ensure that your car is properly maintained and operating at peak performance. However, Denny and the men at Performance Unlimited also know a thing or two about high performance automobiles.

“We’ll have three stations setup to demonstrate how a vehicle’s suspension affects its performance,” Norton said, referring to the Tech Presentation at Performance Unlimited from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m., Sunday, March 13.

The three stations will include a Weight Station where current and aspiring competition drivers will learn about the importance of proper weight distribution and how it affects the handling of a car. Norton said Performance Unlimited has equipment to measure the amount of weight on each wheel. Chassis setup will help to optimize the driving experience.

“We also have an Alignment Station,” Norton said. “Our sophisticated alignment system can dial in any car or truck model. In a street car, this means better handling, safer driving and, possibly, better mileage. On the track, however, this is crucial to getting the safest and best performance out of your car.”

The final station is the Bump Steer Station. Here, drivers and pit crews learn how toe alignment if affected by a car’s front suspension based on an at-rest 2” compression.

For those in the high performance arena, the event is an opportunity to gain an edge against their competition. For the casual visitor, the Tech Presentation offers an insight into the minute details that are considered in preparing a sports car for a competition. It will also provide insight into the full extent of qualifications Performance Unlimited has to offer for those merely seeking safe and economical driving experiences around town and on the open road.
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Safe winter driving starts with a plan

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You’re driving down the highway when the car hiccups. It hiccups again. Suddenly, though you’re depressing the accelerator further, the car is slowing. You turn the wheels to the right and coast through the slush until you come to a stop on the side of a quiet road in the country.

This is no time to start making an emergency list. The answer to emergencies is preparation; you need a plan. And any plan worth its salt starts with an emergency kit. This should include blankets, and cold-weather clothing, such as gloves, coat, dry socks, a scarf and, possibly, boots. You’ll also want to have a small snow shovel, a flashlight with fresh batteries, emergency reflectors and, maybe even, a few snacks to tide you over while waiting for help to arrive. You may also want to carry an insulted bottle of water.

Along with the shovel, you may want to keep a bag of kitty litter in the car. While the kitty litter may be useful for stray cats who make homes in your wheel wells it’s really for traction if you get stuck in the snow. A little kitty litter behind the tires might just give you the traction you need to drive your way out of the ditch or a rut.

You’ll want to check your spare tire and jack. It’s no fun discovering the spare is as flat as a tire on the car or that you have no way to raise the car to replace a flat tire. It’s also a good idea to carry a set of jumper cables. You’ll be someone else’s hero if you help someone jumpstart a stalled car. You’ll be your own hero if you need them and they’re in the trunk.

Possibly the most important item in your emergency kit, which you’ll probably keep in your pocket or purse, is your cell phone. Ask yourself, is the cell phone charged or do you have a D/C charger in the car? The only concern at that point is whether you have reception. Give this a little thought before choosing a carrier.

Finally, consider knowledge, yours and others, a vital tool in keeping you safe during winter driving. Start by going online or checking the radio or television to see what weather is expected. If a storm is blowing in, consider cancelling your trip or, at least take additional precautions. Additional precautions should include letting someone know where you’re going, when you expect to arrive and what route you plan to take. If someone knows to expect you and you don’t show up, even if you’re in a cell-phone dead zone, the cavalry will come around the bend as soon as someone surmises that you could be in trouble.

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Pre-Flight your car for winter driving

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Before a pilot leaves the ground he or she is required to complete a safety checklist. It’s really a great idea as pilots generally prefer to notice a problem with the plane’s controls or a leaky fuel tank before they become airborne. But, for the pilots, completing the checklist is not optional. In a sense, it’s not optional for operators of automobiles.

Consider what happens when you’re pulled over because a taillight has burned out. You tell the officer, I didn’t know it was out. He nods his head understandingly as he hands you a ticket or a warning. Some officers will let you go with a verbal warning. However, they don’t have to. It’s assumed that you should be conducting a safety check of your vehicle every time before you get in and drive.

In reality, how many of us actually check all the lights, brakes and steering system before pulling out of the driveway? It’s actually a reasonable idea any time you drive your car. In the winter time, the value of checking your car is even more critical.

OK, you’re probably not going to go through the entire checklist every time you drive. That won’t stop you from conducting periodic safety checks. If you need some help with this, a qualified auto repair shop can help. Here at Performance Unlimited, we can help you make sure you’re ready for everything winter has to throw at you.

To learn more about Performance Unlimited, visit us at: www.4performanceunlimited.com.

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A little hot air is a good thing when talking about your car’s heater

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Remember last spring when you started wondering if the A/C was working up to par with the summer ahead? It’s time to start thinking in terms of your car’s heater and its ability to keep you warm.

Your car’s heater is important for more than mere comfort, however. It’s also important for clearing frost and fog off the inside of your windows. In this case, an issue of comfort gives way to an issue of safety – yours, your passengers and people in other cars and pedestrians. 

Your car’s heater blows warm air onto the windows and helps clear the windows when you first start the engine and helps keep the windows clear as your driving. Many cars also combine the heating benefits of the heater in combination with your car’s A/C. The air conditioning tends to dry the air. Some cars will operate the A/C in tandem with the heater to bath the windshield with warm air while simultaneously drying the air.

Your car probably has the following controls used for operating the heater: a fan switch to set the level of air flow, a directional switch to determine where the air should blow and a temperature to set the temperature of the air coming out of the heater vents. You should take some time, before winter sets in, to check these controls and make sure they’re working properly. You also want to check to make sure the air coming out of the vents blows hot.

If the air isn’t hot, the first thing to check is the level of your antifreeze/coolant. Often, when this is low, the air will blow hot a while and then go cold as a pocket of air passes through the heater core. Filling the antifreeze/coolant to the proper level, using the proper mix of antifreeze/coolant and water, will help. However, you may want to check into why you’re low on antifreeze/coolant to begin with. 

If you have a leak, you’ll only have to fill the radiator again later. And leaks can sometimes increase. You could find yourself stuck on the side of the road, in the middle of winter, with an overheated engine. There’s something just plain wrong about an overheated engine on a frigid day.

When you discover the fluid is low in your radiator, take your car to a qualified car care representative, such as Performance Unlimited, and have your cooling system checked for a leak.

If your radiator is not low, you may have a clogged heater core or some other problem. Once again, bring a qualified car care specialist into the equation.

To learn more about Performance Unlimited, visit us at www.4performanceunlimited.com.

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Don’t forget your car's other vital fluids

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Of course, it’s not a good thing if the term ‘solid’ appropriately describes the antifreeze in your car. But, antifreeze is not the only fluid you need to consider as you prepare for the winter ahead. There’s also power steering fluid – make sure it’s filled to the ‘Full’ line; windshield washer solvent (we’ve already spoken about that); brake fluid, should be clear and full, transmission fluid, transaxle fluid and engine oil.

The latter fluid is the one we will focus on here, not that the others aren’t important as well; just try to imagine the outcome if you ran out of brake fluid. If the temperature drops to the extent that your oil freezes, surviving the arrival of another Ice Age is a greater concern than whether your car will start. In other words, you can rest easy – your oil is unlikely to freeze into a black cube.

But, that doesn’t mean the cold won’t affect your engine oil. Oil generally doesn’t freeze but it does thicken. For the most part, oil will thin after the engine starts and begins producing heat. However, as your car sits overnight or throughout the day, as the oil draws colder, it progressively thickens.

From your car’s perspective, the engine oil is even more important than antifreeze. It shares responsibilities with antifreeze (in its coolant stage) in carrying away heat from the engine block. But, more importantly, engine oil serves as a lubricant reducing friction between uncompromising metal parts. Take the oil out of your engine and just see how long your engine runs. And when it stops running, it probably will never run again.

You’ve almost certainly heard it before but it bears repeating: change your engine oil every 3,000 miles for cars built in 2004 or earlier and 5,000 miles for newer cars. When changing your oil, you should also replace your oil filter.

When you change your oil, you can use a synthetic oil. Some people swear by synthetic oils. They can generally run longer in your car before beginning to break down and may offer superior lubricating abilities. However, there is something else you can do with your oil to make winter life easier on your engine; you can switch to 5W-30 oil that is more attuned to the cold. In other words, it won’t thicken as much in the cold as, say, 10W-30.

The numbers related to different oils represent the oil’s viscosity. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) sets the auto temperature ratings – viscosity. The SAE measures the flow of the oil at different temperatures. The first number, with the ‘W’, refers to the oil’s ability to withstand colder temperatures. So, using an oil with a lower first SAE number means your oil will do its job better in cold weather. Try it. You’re engine will thank you and you’ll thank your engine.

To learn more about winterizing your car, visit our facebook account at: http://bit.ly/Winterize_otherfluids+
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Start your engines - even in the coldest winter

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Racing fans are very familiar with the excitement at Indy or Daytona, when the words, “Start Your Engines” are heard over the PA system. However, we’d rather you didn’t feel a different kind of anticipation when you turn the key on your car in the middle of a frigid winter night, hoping, but not really sure, that your car will start.

One way to reduce the anticipation is to ensure your car’s engine is properly tuned. A car with worn plugs and wires, or with engine timing that isn’t set right any longer, will test your car’s ability to start in warm weather. Add sub-freezing temperatures to that equation and you’ve seriously upped the ante.

Even if your car is properly tuned, that’s not an absolute guarantee that it will start. There are other factors to consider, such as: how is your batter, does the alternator provide an adequate charge, does the starter draw too much?

You should check your batter. Is it more than four-and-a-half-years old? If so, probably best to replace it. Does it have enough electrolyte (acidic water) inside. How does the electrolyte rate in terms of specific gravity? You can purchase another inexpensive tester to check this. However, there are some batteries these days that are sealed. Best to leave them that way. Chiseling a hole in the top of your battery may allow access to the electrolyte, but it won’t do your battery any good in the long run.

Take a look at your battery and it’s cables. Are the cables cracked, frayed or are the ends covered with a white powder. Are the connections firm and clean (you may need to disconnect the cables to see if the connections are clean - but be careful - making conductive contact between battery connections and other conductors can cause sparks and, in some cases, cause the battery to explode). Is the battery clean. Interestingly enough, a battery can actually discharge across a grease covered surface.

In terms of your alternator and starter, there are electrical testers you can purchase at auto parts stores. However, this is another area where you may want to turn to an expert. Here at Performance Unlimited, 5415 Austin Ct., Ringwood, we not only have state-of-the-art equipment to check your entire charging and starting system, our certified mechanics also attend regular classes to stay up to date on the latest industry standards related to these topics.  But, whether you come to us or someone else, make sure you’re bringing your car to someone you trust. We provide parts and repairs when they’re needed and only when they’re needed.

We’ll test your alternator, your starter and your batter, to ensure it will hold a charge, and guarantee that your electrical systems are up to par.

Visit us on Facebook at: http://bit.ly/bg0Nmr
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Does your antifreeze flow? It’s time to winterize

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There’s really no better place to start talking about winterizing your car than in terms of antifreeze (we call this coolant in the summer, though it still needs to apply its cooling capacity in the winter as well. You can call it coolant if you’d like. However, in the winter, before it can cool it needs to avoid freezing).

Another term to know about antifreeze is specific gravity. This refers to the temperature at which it will freeze. Your local auto parts store has inexpensive testers to determine the specific gravity of your antifreeze. We use slightly more expensive versions that are somewhat more accurate. However, whether we test it or you do so yourself, you’ll want to know that the fluid in your radiator, hoses and engine block will not form an icy block of its own when the temperature outside dips. The tester also determines the level at which your coolant (same fluid) will boil. The tester will indicate whether your antifreeze is up to par at both ends of the scale.
When adding antifreeze more is not better. By this I mean that you don’t want 100-percent strength antifreeze in your system. The best ratio is 60/40. That’s 60 percent antifreeze to 40 percent water.

Another important thing about your antifreeze is that it needs to stay inside the hoses, radiator and engine block. Antifreeze isn’t as effective on the pavement. Therefore, you’ll want to check to make sure there aren’t any leaks. Look at the condition of the hoses. Maybe they’re not leaking now but, if you can find cracked, dried or soft spots, they may have a leak in development. Soft spots are often visible when the hose has swelled, so to speak. Hoses are generally consistent in diameter. If the hoses look bad now, they’ll only look worse when winter sets in.

The final thing to consider in terms of antifreeze is movement. While we don’t want it to leak, we do want it to move when it’s supposed to. The driving force for the antifreeze is the water pump. In older cars, this is attached to the fan at the front of the engine. Newer cars often have electrical fans and you may need a qualified auto repair technician to locate and check the water pump in your newer auto. If you can find the water pump, checking for side-to-side play in the shaft coming out of the front of the water pump, or looking for signs of leaking grease or antifreeze can indicate wear in the water pump and, possibly, indicate it’s time for a replacement.

Inside the engine is a part called the thermostat. Just like the thermostat in your house, a thermostat in your engine reads the temperature. In your engine, it’s worried about the temperature of your coolant/antifreeze. When the fluid is cold, the thermostat should remain closed so that it heats up in the engine. When the fluid is hot, the thermostat opens so that the fluid runs through the radiator and cools before your engine overheats. A thermostat that is stuck open will never sufficiently heat your engine to operating peak operating temperature. A thermostat that is stuck closed will likely overheat your engine. This is an area where you may also want to call in an expert. However, one way to check is to turn on the heat in your car (the antifreeze/coolant flows through a heater core that provides heat to the interior of your car). If the heat doesn’t blow warm, even hot, you may have a thermostat that is stuck open. If it’s stuck closed, well, you’ve probably overheated already anyhow.

To summarize: your coolant needs to take on the additional role of antifreeze in the winter and a simple tester will let you know if it has what it takes. The fluid needs to stay in the cooling system and needs to move when appropriate. If it meets these requirements, you’ve got these winterizing bases covered.

Visit us on Facebook at: http://www.facebook.com/notes.php?id=135965553099634&notes_tab=app_2347471856#!/PerformanceUnlimited?v=wall
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Winterize your car Tip No. 6: Windows are made to see through

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“I can’t see. I can’t see.”
“Why not?”
“My eyes are closed.”

I can almost hear that exchange between Curly and Moe. Anytime you’re driving, it’s a good time to keep your eyes open. In the winter, however, sometimes, keeping your eyes open isn’t enough. Windshields become frosted, covered with salt, snow and road spray. Not only is driving without a sufficient view dangerous and maddening, it can also lead to a ticket for operating a vehicle with an impaired view.

There are several steps you can take to ensure your view is as clear through the windshield as possible. One place to start is taking a look at your wiper blades. Do your wipers operate properly when you turn them on? What is the condition of the blades. Visually inspect the rubber on your wipers for wear and breakage. They’re inexpensive enough that, when in doubt, it’s best to replace them. Do they sit evenly across the windshield? Do they leave streaks?

Next, check your windshield washer solvent. If the reservoir is cracked and leaks, you’ll need to replace it. Here at Performance Unlimited, 5415 Austin Ct., Ringwood, we can help with that. However, once you’ve identified where to fill the reservoir, it’s easy to fill and there are level indicators on the reservoir you can follow to fill to the correct level.

When called upon, does the washer solvent spray across the windshield as desired? We can clean clogged jets and replace pumps that don’t quite have the proper oomph anymore. However, these are parts that generally work well for years and years and will often outlive your car.

Another thing you can do to improve your winter driving vision is to wipe your windshield, inside and out, with an anti-fogging solution. These are available at inexpensive prices at your local auto parts store. You may also want to keep some extra wipes on hand in the car, in case you need them.

Finally, do you have a good scrapper and brush handy? The scrapper should have sufficient reach so you can clean ice off the entire windshield without lying down on the snow-covered hood of your car. The blade of the scrapper should also match up smoothly, from edge to edge, with your windshield. These are relatively inexpensive items are well worth the modest investment. 

To learn more about Performance Unlimited, visit our facebook page at: http://on.fb.me/WinterWindowVision.

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